Cappadocia

Today was a full day in Cappadocia, “Land of the Beautiful horses.” We started this incredible day with a trip to Zelve Open Air Museum. Zelve was once a monastic retreat from the 9th to the 13th century. There we visited some incredible rock cut churches, including, Balikli Kilse, or The Fish Church named for the image of Christ as fish painted on the wall above the altar.

Then it was on to “Anatolian Carpets” and a presentation on Turkish Carpets. Carpet weaving is an old tradition in Turkey going back to the 12th century. . Traditionally carpets were woven by village women for their dowries. During Ottoman times carpets were used in the homes of the Sultan and of the upper classes. I learned quite a bit about the types of Turkish carpets as we toured the factory -wool on wool, wool on cotton, and silk carpets. We were shown their weavers-all women. (The men in the area are all trained as potters traditionally.)

In addition to the women in the factory, “Anatolian Carpets” outsources many weaves throughout Turkey to make artisan quality hand-made carpets. After an enjoyable presentation of various styles and types of carpets we were allowed to roam the factory for a carpet of our very own. I won’t tell you how much I spent, but I left very pleased (and that’s all that matters after all, right?) I bought a lovely wool on wool carpet to put on the side of my bed.

In the afternoon we explored the Goreme Open Air Museum. One of Turkey’s Cultural Heritage sites, Goreme is a valley beyond words. It is a cluster of rock cut Byzantine churches, chapels and monasteries. Cappadocia was once the home of 1500 Orthodox Churches. First built during the time of Christian persecution, in the first through third centuries BCE, these churches were built in secret and in remote places to escape discovery. Once Christianity was made the official religion of the Roman Empire under Constantine the Great these churches continued to grow in number. The insides of these churches were covered in elaborate wall paintings depicting Christ and Mary as well as bible stories, the gospel writers and various early Orthodox saints. One church we visited was the Yilanli Killse, or the Snake Church. I loved the fresco of St. George and St. Theodore attacking the dragon as well as the fresco of St. Helena and Constantine the Great holding the True Cross. The Karanlik Killse, or Dark Church had stunning recently restored frescoes of Christ Pontocrator, Christ on the Cross and the Betrayal by Judas.

I spent some time today just wandering alone through this breathtaking land and found myself greatly moved by the beauty surrounding me. I ended my afternoon here at Goreme with a "must do" when traveling along the Silk Road-a camel ride. Can you imagine traveling hundreds of miles on this big beast? Ouch!


As if this top ten day could not have been any better, we ended it with an evening trip to a Whirling Dervish Ceremony.....We gathered in an old 13th century Caravansarai after nightfall through the illuminate gate and main courtyard of the caravanserai. We sat down on raised seats surrounding a rectangular platform. The room was faintly lit. The Mevlevi ceremony was about to begin. Out walked the Dervishers in black robes and tall turbans. They bowed to us and sat down in the center. An opening verse from the Koran was chanted aloud. The drum, and the reed flute was played. And then the Dervishers began their mystical dance of union with God. I sat in the evening darkness entranced by their swirling, graceful movements. One hand up and one hand down to symbolize their role as vessels of God’s grace poured onto all present. Around and around they went, led by their master. Their black cloaks drop to reveal their white skirt and top undergarments-symbolic of their burial shroud. Their conical felt caps symbolic of their tombstones. Now the Dervishers are in union with God and have left behind their worldly attachments. The music is so uplifting, the movements so trancelike. I am lost in the mystical feeling of it all. When they stop their dancing, the Koran is chanted again wishing peace on all of us. The mystical union is sealed. The ritual dance is over.