Along the Silk Road (Day I)

We’ve left Pamukkale and are heading towards Konya, home of the Sufi mystic and poet Romi who founded the Mevlevi Order of the Whirling Dervishes. The journey today is long ( 6 hours), but it has given me time to get caught up on my journaling. The view out my window continues to be mountainous and dry. This road we are taking follows the old southern route of the Silk Road.
Late in the day we arrived to Konya. Konya’s history goes back 4,000 years ago to when the Hitites called this city “Kuwanna.” The Romans called this city Iconium and the Turks called it Konya. Iconium was an important Roman provincial town and visited several times by St. Paul and St. Barnabas. Under the Turks, Konya was the capital of the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum.
Finally after a long day’s bus journey we arrived in Konya and spend some time at the Mevlana Museum. This museum is filled with pilgrims and visitors who to pay respect to Turkey’s greatest saint, Mevlana Rumi, mystic, poet and religious writer.
Rumi was born in 1207 in Balkh, Afghanistan and fled as a young boy the invading Mongols by moving first to Mecca and later to Rum, reaching Konya in 1228. His father being a noted Sufi preacher, Rumi became a brilliant student of Islamic theology. He studied in Aleppo and Damascus after his father’s death and later accepted an offer to return to Konya in 1240. It was in Konya that he met his very close friend Mehmet Tebrizi, one of his father’s Sufi mystics. Together they spent much time together discussing philosophical topics. Mevlana abandoned his teachings and rarely appeared in public. Tebrizi had a profound influence on Rumi. His disciples became jealous, believing their master had been bewitched by an evil sorcerer. They plotted to have Tebrizi killed in 1247. Heartbroken by this loss, Tebrizi withdrew from the world to meditate and write his great poetic work, Mesnevi.

His teachings can be summarized with this verse:

Come, whoever you may be,
Even if you may be,
An infidel, a pagan, or a fire-worshipper,
come.
Ours is not a brotherhood of despair.
Even you have broken
Your vows of repentance a hundred
times, come.

Rumi died December 13, in 1273 and his death was described by him as his “wedding day” with Allah. After his death, his son continued on his following by forming a brotherhood called the Mevlevi, or Whirling Dervishers.
Today, the site of his tomb is considered to be a very holy place visited by 1.5 million pilgrims a year.

Silk Road Tour (Day II)

Today we left our hotel in Konya and headed over the Konya plain. This plain is the largest in all of Turkey and is located in Central Anatolia. As I looked out over the plain I thought of the various peoples that have traveled through and have left their mark on this land. The Silk Road passed through this area and many crumbling caravensarai's, dot the area along side the modern highway we travel on. I imagined 12th/13th centrury merchants and traders passing through with their camels and goods. I also imagined the ancient peoples who inhabitated this land such as the ancient inhabitants of Catalhoyuk some 9,000 years ago or the Hitities some 4,000 years ago, as well as and the Phrygians, and Romans and Seljuk Turks. Our bus stopped suddenly once for a sheppard and his flock of sheep that needed to cross the street. I wondered where the shepard was leading his flock for water and shelter. It was so beatiful to see him tend to an injured or sick sheep by puttinh him on his donkey and riding off with him!

As we continued along the small modern highway our bus stopped periodically for "humanitarian needs" and we also stopped for lunch in the small town of Agzikarahan for lunch at a restored Caravansarai. It was a beautifully restored Caravansarai and I imagined how it must have provided shelter, drink, food, a bath and a place to stay for the merchant and his animals for the night. It was nice to see how the old mixes with the new, as modern bus stops and modern buses mix with the old, showing that time doesn't change our common humanity.

About 40 miles outside of Konya we stopped to visit Catalhoyuk, one of the world’s earliest urban settlements. The settlement dates back 9,000 years and was first excavated by James Mellaart in 1958. Today we had the privilege of having a private tour of the site by the current head of excavations, Dr. Ian Hodder, of Stanford University. The mounds visible on the site have shown to cover the remains of 13 layers of buildings dating from 6800-5700 BCE. The dwellings were mainly mud-brick with an entrance by ladder on the roof. Ancestors were buried under the floors of the homes causing archeologists to deduce that the houses also doubled as shrines. When the house began to wear, they were half dismantled and the bottom half filled in (to perhaps allow for further burials) and then the new house was built above it. Many finds have been found throughout the site including remains of the dead, murals, bulls’ head plaster reliefs, mother goddess figurines, tools and the earliest known pottery, most of which is housed in Ankara’s Museum of Anatolian Civilizations.

Then it was on to Cappadocia! Situated deep in the heart of Turkey, Cappadocia is a world of lunar landscapes and surreal scenery, of ancient churches, and cave dwellings, of picture-postcard villages and big cities steeped in tradition. The history of this region is long. Cappadocia was once the heart of the Hitite Empire from 1800 -1200 BCE, then came under Persian control followed by Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman rule. Cappadocia is truly the crossroads of East and West, with its inhabitants having encountered different peoples from all around the region.
Cappadocia’s heavenly backdrop was the result of volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. The area was covered with volcanic tuff that has been sculpted over millennia into fantastic shapes by water and erosion. The landscape therefore is truly out of this world. Huge mushroom shaped stones and “fairy chimneys”, soft ridges and deep valleys, acute edges and mild undulations fill the landscape-all riddled with numerous ancient cave dwellings like a Swiss cheese.
We drove into Cappadocia in the late afternoon and explored the underground city of Kaymakli. This underground hide-away was built thousands of years ago by the inhabitants of this region to use a place of refuge when invaders threatened them. Here they fortified themselves for up to six months at a time. We toured this underground city with flashlight in hand. It was a truly other worldly encounter. We walked down and up stairways of stone, and through low, narrow passageways at times practically on our knees. To imagine that thousands of people lived in these sunless, cramped, damp surrounding really gave me pause. I passed the kitchen, the church, the catacombs. Room after room after room we explored going down in total four levels. All these amazing rooms are underground, all carved from the tuff stone. It was a delight to step out into the sunshine after our tour (of under an hour). I could only imagine how the ancient Hitites must have felt after months underground.
Last stop for the day was a visit to a modern day “cave dwelling” home. These were friends of our tour guide, Serhan and they allowed us the privilege of stopping by their home for some Turkish apple tea and a short visit. This couple have lived in this cave home they dug out of the rock 25 years ago. It was a lovely hmome and oh what a view!

Cappadocia

Today was a full day in Cappadocia, “Land of the Beautiful horses.” We started this incredible day with a trip to Zelve Open Air Museum. Zelve was once a monastic retreat from the 9th to the 13th century. There we visited some incredible rock cut churches, including, Balikli Kilse, or The Fish Church named for the image of Christ as fish painted on the wall above the altar.

Then it was on to “Anatolian Carpets” and a presentation on Turkish Carpets. Carpet weaving is an old tradition in Turkey going back to the 12th century. . Traditionally carpets were woven by village women for their dowries. During Ottoman times carpets were used in the homes of the Sultan and of the upper classes. I learned quite a bit about the types of Turkish carpets as we toured the factory -wool on wool, wool on cotton, and silk carpets. We were shown their weavers-all women. (The men in the area are all trained as potters traditionally.)

In addition to the women in the factory, “Anatolian Carpets” outsources many weaves throughout Turkey to make artisan quality hand-made carpets. After an enjoyable presentation of various styles and types of carpets we were allowed to roam the factory for a carpet of our very own. I won’t tell you how much I spent, but I left very pleased (and that’s all that matters after all, right?) I bought a lovely wool on wool carpet to put on the side of my bed.

In the afternoon we explored the Goreme Open Air Museum. One of Turkey’s Cultural Heritage sites, Goreme is a valley beyond words. It is a cluster of rock cut Byzantine churches, chapels and monasteries. Cappadocia was once the home of 1500 Orthodox Churches. First built during the time of Christian persecution, in the first through third centuries BCE, these churches were built in secret and in remote places to escape discovery. Once Christianity was made the official religion of the Roman Empire under Constantine the Great these churches continued to grow in number. The insides of these churches were covered in elaborate wall paintings depicting Christ and Mary as well as bible stories, the gospel writers and various early Orthodox saints. One church we visited was the Yilanli Killse, or the Snake Church. I loved the fresco of St. George and St. Theodore attacking the dragon as well as the fresco of St. Helena and Constantine the Great holding the True Cross. The Karanlik Killse, or Dark Church had stunning recently restored frescoes of Christ Pontocrator, Christ on the Cross and the Betrayal by Judas.

I spent some time today just wandering alone through this breathtaking land and found myself greatly moved by the beauty surrounding me. I ended my afternoon here at Goreme with a "must do" when traveling along the Silk Road-a camel ride. Can you imagine traveling hundreds of miles on this big beast? Ouch!


As if this top ten day could not have been any better, we ended it with an evening trip to a Whirling Dervish Ceremony.....We gathered in an old 13th century Caravansarai after nightfall through the illuminate gate and main courtyard of the caravanserai. We sat down on raised seats surrounding a rectangular platform. The room was faintly lit. The Mevlevi ceremony was about to begin. Out walked the Dervishers in black robes and tall turbans. They bowed to us and sat down in the center. An opening verse from the Koran was chanted aloud. The drum, and the reed flute was played. And then the Dervishers began their mystical dance of union with God. I sat in the evening darkness entranced by their swirling, graceful movements. One hand up and one hand down to symbolize their role as vessels of God’s grace poured onto all present. Around and around they went, led by their master. Their black cloaks drop to reveal their white skirt and top undergarments-symbolic of their burial shroud. Their conical felt caps symbolic of their tombstones. Now the Dervishers are in union with God and have left behind their worldly attachments. The music is so uplifting, the movements so trancelike. I am lost in the mystical feeling of it all. When they stop their dancing, the Koran is chanted again wishing peace on all of us. The mystical union is sealed. The ritual dance is over.

Balloon Ride Over Cappadocia

4:30 am....That was time I had to meet Kapadokya Balloons down in the hotel lobby for an incredible once in a lifetime experience. For over an hour, as the sun was beginning to rise over the magical land of Cappadocia, I enjoyed a beautiful hot air balloon ride from 3,000 feet above.











The hot air balloon ride over Cappadocia was surely the highlight of this day. Before leaving the Cappadocia region we went to Avanos, a town famous for its pottery and visited a pottery workshop. Afterwards, we boarded the bus and headed towards Sivas.

Central Anatolia Tour (Day I)

We stayed overnight in Sivas, our most Eastern Turkish town. I felt as if I had come to a part of Turkey where tourists are not so commonplace and it felt exciting to feel the east closing in on me. While staying at the hotel in Sivas, a few in our group were invited to attend a night before the wedding party for the bride and all her family and friends. It was so nice to be welcomed to see the happy occasion. I saw the "bride to be" dance in her red dress with her future husband and then when he kissed her goodbye and left, the real party began. The women at the event danced and ate cookies and cake and had a wonderful time. Later in the evening my friend Sue went down and had her hand painted with henna, along with the bride, a tradition in Turkey.

Sivas is located on the eastern end of the Central Anatolia Region and at its highest point. Its history goes back to 1500 BCE when it was established as a Hitite town, and then in turn was ruled by Assyrians, Medes, and Persians before coming under the rule of kings of Cappadocia and Pontus. eventually it fell to the Romans and finally the Turks. It is located at the junction point of the Persian and Baghdad caravan routes and was once a busy commercial center. It has some of the finest Seljuk Turk buildings ever erected.

We spent the morning exploring Sivas medresses. We started with the Sifaiye Medresse, a medieval medical school dating back to 1217. Inside now is a lovely rose garden and tea tables. Just opposite it is the Cifte Minare Medrese (Seminary of the Twin Towers) finished in 1271. Unfortunately all that is left of this medresse is the portal.



We walked next to the Buruciye Medressi, built in 1271. This medresse was once the mathematics and science school. Currently inside is a lovely tea garden. On our way out we were approached by some adorable young boys selling pretzels. Hospitality for sure!









After the morning tour we headed to Tokat and a visit to the Gok Medrese. Gok means blue in Turkish and the building's blue tiles is where the medrese received its name. It was built in 1277 and was used as a hospital until 1811. Now it's a museum that contains Stone and Bronze Age artifacts from excavations at Masat Hoyuk, relics fromTokat's churches, (including a wax effigy of St. Christina martyred during the reign of Diocletian), tools and weapons, Korans and Islamic calligraphy and an excellent costume display. On the way to lunch, we walked by the Tas Han, an Ottoman caravanserai and by the Hatuniye Mosque and Medresse dating from 1485. And finally right across the street from where we ate lunch we saw (but unfortunately had no time to enjoy) the wonderful Ali Pasa Hamam. This bath house was built in 1572 for Ali Pasa, one of the sons of Sulleyman the Magnificent. I also bought a pretzel from some more "pretzel boys."

Next it was on the bus again to Amasya, a beautiful city between the Black Sea and inner Turkey. It is described as one of the prettiest towns in all of Turkey. Amasya was once an Hitite town and later conquered by Alexander the great. It was later controlled by Persian provincial governers and became the capital of a great Pontic Kingdom. The golden age of the Kingdom of Pontus lasted until 47 BCE when the Romans conquered this area. On the way to Amasya our bus passed through the same pass that Ceaser's troops passed in Central Anatolia. Nearby this area, Julius Ceaser was recorded as saying, "Veni, vedi, vici...I came, I saw, I conquered," made in reference to his victory over the Kingdom of Pontus.


Once in Amasya we walked along the Yesilirmak River and had a "off the itineray" pleasure. A small group of us popped into the Mihri Katun women' s tea house for a cup of cay and women's talk. (Mary Khatun was Amasya's first female poet in the 1400s). It was so delightful for the small group of us American and Turkish women to laugh together few a while and share our stories in this tea house. When we left, we hugged goodbye and really felt like we had connected with each other. It was well worth the reprimand from our illustrious leader once when we returned!


That night we stayed in the Apple Palace hotel over looking the Tombs of the Pontic Kings, which were cut deep into the rock face on the bank of the river. At dinner that night up near our hotel we had a beautiful view of the Pontic Tombs illuminated in the evening darkness.

Central Anatolia Tour (Day II)

This morning we drove to the ancient center of the Hitite culture at Hattusas. Hattusas is near modern day town of Bogazkale. The ancient Hitites once commanded a vast Middle Eastern Empire around 2,000 BCE from Babylon in the East, Syria to the south and to the borders of Egypt in the west. Hattusas was their capital city. They worshipped over a thousand gods, most importantly was Teshub, the storm god and Hepatu, the sun goddess. They wrote in cunneiform style and these tablets reveal a society that was well ordered with more than 200 laws. They went into decline around 1250 BCE, being taken over by the Phrygians.

First we explored the Hitite religious sanctuary called the Yazilikaya, or Inscribed Rock. In these galleries of stone we saw reliefs of numerous goddesses and gods. We next explored the Main Temple Complex, dating from the 14th century BCE. We walked through the processional street and saw the main temple surrounded by storerooms which contained food stuffs, money, and cuneiform tablets, amongst other valuables. We also saw the green cubic rock, supposedly one of only two in the world and a present from Ramses II after signing the Kadesh peace treaty. Next, we drove up to the defensive walls and gates of the city. The most impressive was the Lion Gate, with two stone lions on either side of the gateway to protect the city from evil spirits. These walls, built alomost 4,000 years ago, illustrate the Hitites engineering ingenuity. They had a great ability to build along with the terrain plus and ability to transform the landscape. It must have been an impressive view to any approaching army! Next, we drove down to the Sphinx Gate and walked through the 70m long tunnel used as a route for Hitite soldiers defending the walls from attacking invaders. We then carefully climbed down from the rampart via the monumental stairway and enjoyed the view over Bogazkale.




On the bus again to Ankara, the capital of the Turkish Republic! It was our last and longest bus journey of these past two weeks, but finally we arrived to the Gordion Hotel in Ankara in time for dinner and a little gift shopping along the main street. Ankara is the capital and center of secularism in modern Turkey. It's Turkey's second largest city after Istanbul. It's history goes back to the time when Ankara (then called Angora) was once part of the Phrygian empire. It prospered at the intersection of the north-south/east-west trade routes. Later it was taken over by Alexander the Great, claimed by the Selecuids, and finally occupied by the Galatians (Gauls) who invaded Anatolia around 250 BCE. Julius Ceaser annexed it to Rome in 25 BCE and named it Ankyra. It was controlled next by the Byzantines and Seljuk Turks briefly before the Ottomans possessed it. Angora was known at this time for its gsoft haired goats but little more until 1923 when Ataturk chose Ankora as the capital of the new republic.

Ankara-Cental Anatolia Tour (Day III)

Today was our last full day in Turkey. We spent the morning visiting the Museum of Anatolian Civilization. The museum has priceless collections stretching from prehistoric times (we saw many artifacts from the Catalhoyuk site we visited) to the classical (again we saw many artifacts from the ancient sites we visited-Pergamun, Ephesus, Aphrodisias, and Hieropolis). It is one of the world's greatest museums and is housed in a restored Ottoman Han. Then it was lunch with the Eurasian Strategic Research Foundation followed by an informative briefing on Turkish domestic/foreign policy issues.

In the afternoon we visited the Mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder and first President of the Republic of Turkey. After spending two weeks here in Turkey, it was fitting to end our trip here with this visit. His presence has been felt constantly...his image is in every classroom in Turkey, statues of him are in all public institutions and main squares throughout the country. School children learn about his life story and on November 10th of every year, the country comes to a standstill on the stroke of 9:05 to commemorate his death in 1938. Ataturk is Turkey's hero for sure and perhaps it can be argued more than that...for he is the embodiment of Turkey's secular modernization, "Kemalism" and as such a counter to of the growing Islamic ideological movement.

So we made our way past two towers, down a stone walkway, flanked by two lions, Hittite symbols of power and strength. The design of the stones forced upon us the need to always look down instilling in us a posture of respect in the presence of this great man's final resting place. We eventually came to the museum of Ataturk, where we walked through what has to be described as a surreal journey through Ataturk's life and accomplishments, memorabilia and personal effects. And finally we walked up the grand marble stairway of Ataturk's Mausoleum and through the huge bronze doors into the lofty marble hall and paused for a moment in front of the cenotaph marking the final resting place of the country's first president.

Then it was onto the bus for one final journey together to the Ministry of Education for a farewell reception. We were given a briefing on Turkish Education and afterwards chit chatted with the Turkish educators present and gave our farewell gifts to Hulya, our Turkish Foundation liason person and to Serhan, or illustrious tour guide for the trip. Then it was back to the hotel for one last eveing in Turkey before our 9 am flight back to the states.